Ometepe Island - Nicaragua's island of peace and tradition

As mass winds down inside the crumbling Catholic church, outside assembling masses of other worshippers stir with eager anticipation. Soon the service will morph into a different ritual shared by this small island town in the middle of Lake Nicaragua for at least a thousand years - or well before Spanish and Christian influences became dominant.

Baile de Zompopo or Dance of the Leaf Cutter Ant begins at mass’ conclusion sending participants by the hundreds into and winding about the streets of Altagracia. Waving cane sugar stalks and other leafy branches overhead, they move to the rhythmic beat of drums, horns and unnamed local instruments in a joyful celebration of life that lasts for hours. The ritual's mythological roots trace to Ometepe´s Chorotega Indian desire to appease the Leaf Cutter Ants which prehistorically ravaged crops on the island of Ometepe.

Somehow it seemingly worked, allowing today’s human population of roughly 40,000 to coexist in a natural harmony with the island’s diverse mix of tropical flaura and fauna. Now incorporated into a weeklong November celebration of the town’s patron saint, San Diego de Alcala, Baile de Zompopo is but one of Ometepe’s many gems only recently being discovered by the world.

This island of tradition and mystery long been known in Nicaragua as an oasis of peace despite the country´s history of revolutions, wars and controversial leaders - including the recently reborn and reelected Sandinista firebrand Daniel Ortega. The island may be the safest place in Nicaragua, which ironically and statistically is actually the safest country in Central America.

Ometepe´s most striking physical feature is its two volcanoes, Concepcion and Madera, which jut up into the sky above the figure eight shaped island - 30 kilometer long and 15 kilometers at its widest. The island has long stood out to explorers and passersby using the narrow crossing of Lake Nicaragua to connect from Atlantic to Pacific oceans.

Included were thousands of California Gold Rushers and later Mark Twain who described Ometepe´s twin peaks as "two magnificent pyramids, clad in the softest and richest green, all flecked with shadow and sunshine, who summits pierce the billowy clouds. They look so isolated from the world and its turmoil, so tranquil, so dreamy, so steeped in slumber and eternal repose."

Today Ometepe is largely left out of travel itineraries except for mostly hardy backpacker types who are drawn by mountain biking, climbing, kayaking and other physical challenges. But as Nicaragua looks to grow its tourism industry Ometepe is seen as a diamond in the rough. Proximity to both Pacific coast beach areas and the quaint, colonial city of Granada, arguably the oldest European inhabited city in the Americas, makes Ometepe potentially suitable for either short day trips or more extended visits.

But first one must navigate the oft-choppy waters of Lake Nicaragua, which is also known for its freshwater sharks - though overfishing has made them nearly an endangered species. El Ferry, the only recommended vessel unless you fancy an African Queen type experience, makes the hour-long crossing from San Jorge four times daily landing at the island port of Moyagalpa. Inexpensive hotels and restaurants abound along with tour guides and other hustlers who will immediately greet you upon landing.

You could arrange an immediate eight hour climb up still active Concepcion (it puffed ashes as recently as early September but has not actually thrown any larger items since 1957. The hike, with a guide strongly recommended, offers a fabulous view of the island and most of Latin America´s second largest lake as well.

ut for most the the best start to enjoying Ometepe is to head out of town either by frequent public transportation, usually old American school buses with names you might recognize, or by taxi. Nicaragua´s ridiculously cheap prices ensure you can tour virtually the entire island for less than your cab ride to the airport back home.

A great first stop just 15 minutes out of Moyagalpa is for a picnic or walk on the waters at the aptly-named Punte Maria y Jesus. Waters lapping at each side of a narrow sandbar that extends out nearly a half mile into the lake allow you an almost messianic feel as you seemingly walk on water.

Not far down Ometepe´s southern coast on the island's best road paved with dark brown bricks, is the sacred Charco Verde lagoon. The small lake was said by the Chorotega to be inhabited by the mysterious Chico Largo who ruled all who had sold their soul for material wealth. Paintings depict a wealthy but captive village operating under the waters - with tongue-in-cheek warnings given by locals that visitors should not to look too deeply into the lagoon lest Chico Largo be looking for more inhabitants.

But visitors needn’t sell their souls to enjoy the scenic lagoon and the nearby lake beaches all sitting directly in the shadow of Concepcion´s perfect pyramid shape. One can also walk through a nature preserve, rent a kayak and enjoy nearby nooks, coves and even small islands inhabited by spider monkeys. A resort by the same name offers clean rooms with air conditioning ranging from $10 to $45 and a small restaurant with a tasty menu based on local fish, meat and vegetarian entrees. Not to be missed anywhere on the island, as in all of Nicaragua, are the fresh fruits, while the island's acres of plantains form another dietary staple.

But the island's most upscale dining and lodging is located on Ometepe's east coast near the narrow isthmus that connects Concepcion and Maderas. Playa Santa Domingo is home to several hotels including the German-run Villa Paraiso which offers exquisitely designed wood and brick cabanas ranging from $52 to $75 per night.

The budget minded can find a bargain without a great drop in quality right next door at the Hospedaje Los Kabanas´ $25 for double cabanas. But one should be prepared for a lack of hot water in showers, as in most standard Central American hotels.

Paraiso´s restaurant comes as close to gourmet as Ometepe offers, with emphasis on Lake Nicaragua daily catches such as the guapote, similar to northern bass, and locally grown, organic chicken, beef, ham and poultry items. Pasta and vegetarians can also find options with entree prices ranging from $6 to $12.

All of the facilities overlook Playa Domingo's black sandy beaches, among Nicaragua's finest. A long shelf heading out into the water yields not only a cooling, clean experience but also a view of both volcanoes simultaneously. Cooling breezes across the lake ensure air conditioning is almost superfluous.

Santa Domingo is often used as a jumping off point to the even more quiet southern portion of the island. Attractions include a waterfall at San Ramon that can be reached via a three hour hike from a biology station in the small town. The hike also can yield views of a variety of flora and fauna, sometimes including small white-tailed deer, and conga (howler monkees). Accomodations are limited in the area but the nearby town of Merida has several small hotels including the Omaha, run by an American ex-pat, with clean, spacious double accomodations for $30 and exquisite sunset views across the lake to the mountains of Costa Rica at no charge.

Hiking enthusiasts with equal fortitude for handling some of Ometepe´s bumpiest dirt roads might also be attracted to the opposite site of Madera, where most climbs to the summit begin. There La Finca Magdalena awaits visitors willing to accept rustic but clean accomodations ranging from $2 to $30. While you're there you can literally pick your own coffee grown in the rich volcanic soil.

From Magdalena hikers pass petroglyphs with enscriptions and animal carvings dating thousands of years on their way to the top and then can possibly climb down into Madera's hollowed out crater and swim in the volcanic lake. The entire area is permanently enclouded with a rainforest environment unlike the rest of the islands dry tropical climate. Good hiking boots, a guide and tolerance for mud are definite requirements for a remarkable experience.

Returning to the Concepcion side of the island one can clean up at the clean water pools of the Rio Istan or if you haven't had enough excitement yet, check out the small canopy tour also near Santa Domingo. There you can move Tarzan-like tree to tree on zip lines in a eco-recreational sport increasingly common in Central America.

But a personal favorite stop is a return to Altagracia's center where the past and present seem to organically mix on a regular basis. There friendly guides at the small Museo Ometepe proudly explain their island's unique history and hopes for the future. Many see Ometepe’s innate geothermal, wind and solar power potentials, along with tourism, as a natural link to prosperity.

Or one can walk back to the nearby iglesia where other guides - petroglyph heads carved untold years ago - keep a 24-hour watch over life in the small, intimate community. With enough imagination one can almost see them smiling as leaf cutter ants, faux and real, continue their timeless dance.

A map of the island is located here.