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Atlantico NorteSubmitted by Miskito Alan on 21 May, 2005 - 13:09.
Just like Texas, the Atlantic Coast of Nicaragua "is just like another country". The North Atlantic Coast comprises over 26% of the total land area of Nicaragua; but, this area only comprises less than 5% of the total population. This extensive area (autonomous region of the R.A.A.N.) has never been fully incorporated into the nation of Nicaragua. This area, known as the “Mosquito Coast”, is isolated from western Nicaragua by rugged mountains and dense tropical rainforest. There are still no paved roads between the cities of the Pacific region and the Caribbean region. The native people (the “Miskitos”) are divided by history and culture from the Mestizos of the west, whom they call "the Spanish." On the North Atlantic Coast, the Miskitos comprise the majority of the population and usually speak Miskito with Spanish as a second language. The North Atlantic Coast was never part of the Spanish empire but was, in effect, a British protectorate beginning in the seventeenth century . In the mid-nineteenth century, the United States replaced Britain as the region's protecting power. Not until 1894 did the entire region come under direct Nicaraguan administration. Even then, continuing United States political influence, commercial activity, and missionary interest in the Caribbean lowlands eclipsed the weak influence of western Hispanic Nicaragua until World War II. As a result of this history, the native people have not traditionally regarded themselves as Nicaraguans. Rather, they see Nicaraguan rule as an foreign imposition and fondly recall the years of semisovereignty and intermittent prosperity they enjoyed under British and American tutelage. Most Miskitos are Protestants, generally Moravians, and those who became Roman Catholics did so under the influence of priests from the United States rather than from Nicaragua. The Miskito, the largest of the indigenous groups, reflect the region's diverse ethnic history and are linguistically related to the Chibcha of South America. Their culture reflects adaptations to contacts with Europeans that stretch back to their seventeenth-century collaboration with English, French, and Dutch pirates. Their genetic heritage is from indigenous and European people. During the colonial period, the Miskito, allied with Britain, became the dominant group in the Caribbean lowlands. A Miskito monarchy, established over the region with British support in 1687, endured into the nineteenth century. The Miskito population is concentrated in northeasternmost Nicaragua from the Rio Coco to Puerto Cabezas and along the banks of several rivers that flow east out of the highlands to the Caribbean. The major cities and towns of the area are Puerto Cabezas (the capital); Waspam (on the Houduranian border); and the mining triangle towns of Bonanza; Rosita; and Suina. Puerto Cabezas is also known by its Miskito name of “Bilwi”. All five listed cities are served by La Costena Airlines. ______________________________________________________________ More interesting information about this region can be found at http://www.nicaliving.com/blog/831 |
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PollIn Nicaragua, my income will come from Job in Nicaragua 0% Run business in Nicaragua 31% Pension/investments/savings 35% External work (e.g., on-line) 23% No clue 12% Total votes: 26 A ThoughtMañana doesn't mean tomorrow. It just means not today. |
Atlantic Coast - 1905
Back when there was no Puerto Cabezas (Bilwi).
Back when there was no canal from Bluefields to Pearl Lagoon.
Click for 1905 Map
Miskito Alan ®
The Mining Triangle Rocks!
So, if you get stuck without a plane from Puerto Cabezas and need to take the scenic, horrible bus back to Managua, why not visit the Mining Triangle? The landmines are gone, the gold mines are still there, the last FUAC paramilitaries were arrested in 2001, and there are troops and cops all over the place now; it's probably safer than Managua. I haven't picked up the new Moon or Footprints guides yet, but the old ones didn't have much info, so here's a little to get you started.
Just some tips: There are no banks and it's cash only, even for airline tickets (there's a morning flight to/from Managua from all three towns), everywhere. Roads are scenic but terrible (10hrs Managua-Siuna, 5hrs Rosita-Puerto), but you can get around the three cities pretty easily by bus. Bonanza-Rosita is 1.5hrs by bus and a $20 taxi ride, Rosita-Siuna is a 4hr bus ride. Siuna and Rosita have lousy infrastructure - carry a flashlight in case the electricity goes out, and look forward to bucket-flush toilets if you stay in a cheap hotel.
Rosita Closest to Puerto, Rosita is straight out of a cheesy Hollywood western: clapboard wooden houses with horses tied in front, country music and nortenos blaring out of the bars, and cowboys everywhere. There are lots of mosquitoes (Miskitos and Mayangna, too - it's a very indigenous town, see more on that later), so sleep under a net.
Other than hitting the two discos (Los Cocos for kids, Ranchon Lover Boy for adults), or climbing the hill behind Santa Rosa Catholic Church, there's not much to do in town. Take a taxi (10 cords) to Bar 2000, overlooking the mine tailings, lots of rusting mine equipment and a poisoned lake, all very pretty (in a postapocolyptic way) at sunset; or to Bar Campestre Laguna Verde, where you can swim in the forest or have a beer in the palapa hut. The owner is great. You could also book a tour of the surrounding Mayangna (aka Sumo) and Miskito villages with FURCA (794-1045, furca@sdnnic.org.ni), about US$60 for a group of four to Wasa King via panga up Rio Bamabana, cheaper for car trips to villages closer by.
The best cheap hotel in town is CECAP (794-1003, 60 cords pp), with no sign, in the two-story aquamarine Victorian next to the hospital; it has very clean little rooms, mosquito nets, shared toilets and caters to medical students, but you can stay there, too. The best hotel is Hotel Los Suenos (794-1004; US$10/20 pp with fan/air-con), which has clean, modern rooms, a parking lot, breakfast service (US$2) and cable TV in the air-conditioned rooms. There are lots of little comedors in town, but the best restaurant is Video Bar Martinez. The Colegio has Internet (50 cords/hour, 1pm-3pm and 5pm-8pm Mon-Fri).
(I had to split this post)
Siuna Siuna's main claim to fame, other than having a less reliable water supply than even Puerto Cabezas, is that it's the gateway to Saslaya National Park, the most pristine part of Bosawas Biosphere Reserve, which is the biggest swath of protected tropical humid forest north of the Amazon. The Bosawas office (no phone), 100m from the airstrip (which is literally in the middle of town) can set you up with guides (US$6/day) and horses (US$5/day) to visit two campsites, which can also be done as day-trips. Campo Salto Labu (3hrs hiking) has a canyon, petroglyphs and a place where you can swim in a cave; Campo Piedra Colorada (4hrs hiking) has a lagoon. There are also multi-day hikes up Cerro Saslaya and other big jungly mountains.
You could also take a taxi (11km, US$10 rt, with 2hr wait) to the sandy beach along scenic Rio Wani, or go to the hot springs: take a taxi (20 cords) to 'la bomba' then hike 1.5hrs. Bikinis are a bad idea, gals should go for shorts and a T-shirt.
The best cheap hotel (and cheap restaurant) in town is bright yellow Hotelito Los Chinitos (794-2038; US$6/10 s/d), across from the Bosawas office, with tiny, super clean rooms with mosquito screens and shared bath with 24hr water. The best hotel is Hotel Siu (794-2028; hotel_siu@yahoo.com; US$15-25 room with TV and private bath, US$8 pp shared bath), up the stairs from the airstrip, about 100m from the Alcaldia, with big, pretty rooms with private bath and 24hr water in the house, good rooms with shared bath out back. Urracan University, 2km from town, has Internet (25 cords/hr, 8am-8pm Mon-Sat).
....
Bonanza is the crown jewel of the Mining Triangle, located inside Reserva Bosawa and surrounded by gorgeous mountains; it's a 45minute climb up Cerro del Cruce (with the cross on top) for the second best view in town, or a 20min, 80-cord taxi ride to the top of 1500m El Chiquerro, with outstanding mountain, town and mine views. The Bosawa\'s office (tel 794-0109), about 2km from town, can set up trips to Reserva Cerro Cola, with mountain climbing; to their organic farm just south of town, with trails, virgin rainforest and a cute little stream; or to visit Musuwas (the capital of the Mayangna nation), about 30km north of town, well inside Bosawas. The Alcaldia can also set these tours up.
HEMSA, the Canadian-owned mining consortium, arranges free tours of their facilities - including a 250m-deep mining tunnel!!! - with two weeks' notice. They can probably get you an English-speaking guide. Call or email them (tel 794-0066, extension 789; elmomendoza@hemconic.com in Spanish, amilkarramos@hemconic.com in English) with the number of people (6 max), dates you'll be in town, and reason for your visit. There are also lots of goldsmiths in Bonanza that make beautiful, dirt-cheap gold jewelry; I don't know anything about quality or carats or stuff like that, but earings and bracelets ran 40-80 cords, rings and necklaces 60-100 cords, more with gemstones. And they make the stuff right in front of you. Awesome. There are LOTS of bars, all of which were a little bit rough for me, or you could also go check out a movie (6pm nightly, 40 cords) on the big-screen TV at Tropical Video.
Super! So who needs a new Moon Handbook ?
Nice travel log. So, when's your handbook coming out? Well done but I suspect you have a writing background. Now, please move over to the northwest coast and rush up some info for me! Thank you very much!