Submitted by fyl on 11 December, 2004 - 12:44.
This is the beginning of a How To on how to "fit" into Nicaraguan
society.
During the 1930s depression in the U.S., the WPA was created by the
government. It could best be described as a busywork agency. While I
wasn't around then, I have been told that counting cracks in the
sidewalk was a project. Does this make any sense? It depends on how
you look at it. There were lots of unemployed people. You could let
them starve, pay them to do nothing or pay them to do something. The
third choice was selected.
In Nicaragua today you have a similar problem. That is, high
unemployment. In the short term, you have the same three choices.
Unfortunately, Nicaragua today does not have the resources that the U.S.
had to pay people for nothing. Equally unfortunate, what really got
the US out of the depression was a war.
Why did I present this example? Because it was something my parents
talked about. Or, more accurately, complained about. My dad had sold a
business and my parents lived on savings during this time. Thus, they
didn't appreciate that not everyone could afford to not have any
income for five years.
When you try to live in Nicaragua (or in this
region) there will be lots of things like this that don't make sense
to you. If you try to "fix them" or "make them work like they do where
you came from" you will likely be very frustrated. The items below are
here to help you appreciate that things are not "wrong here" but just
different. These are all just examples. There will be lots more things
that you can add to the list. In fact, I encourage you to add them
here as comments.
- The streets are paved with blocks, not cement or asphalt.
- There are many reasons for this. When the paving is done it can
be done by a crew of people with nothing more than shovels and wheelbarrows.
The materials will be dropped on on site in a flat-bed truck. Thus,
labor (which is pleantiful and cheap is maximized and equipment
minimized. In addition, if a pipe needs to be accessed under the
street, people can dig up the street, fix the pipe and put the
pavement back. No equipment other than a shovel and pry bar is
needed.
- There are no windows on the sides of the houses.
- It is common to build to the property line. Thus, there can't be.
This is the same as row houses in many US cities.
- Directions tend to be relative to places that may no longer
exist.
-
Think about someone in Los Angeles telling you that Imperial Highway
is south of Century Boulavard and the place you are looking for is
between Hoover and Vermont. If you don't know which way is south you
immediately have a problem. Telling you that a place is relative to
something that no longer exists is no different. When someone says
"3.5 cuadras este de el Texaco viejo" they are giving you a point,
direction and distance. Just like having to learn that Vermont is east
of Normandy, you learn that the corner where there is currently a
Petronic station in Estelí is "Texaco viejo".
- I was meeting someone and they were an hour late.
- In the U.S. many people are on time, but not all. In Nicaragua,
many people are not on time but not all. Most people here have more
time than money. Stopping for a conversation with someone when you are
on your way to an appointment is just normal. On the other hand, you
can usually walk into a dentist's or lawyer's office without an
appointment and not wait as long as you do in the U.S. when you do
have an appointment.
- I left my garden hose out and someone stole it.
- Theft here is a crime of opportunity. The general attitude is that
it was the fault of the victim.
- They wash that old junker car every day.
- People may not be able to afford a new car or even a paint job for
their old car but that doesn't mean they don't have pride. Lots of
things here are old and warn but most things are also clean.
- Varas, meters, feet, pounds, liters, ... Huh?
- For those of you in the U.S. who can't tell me how many rods there
are in a chain or even how many yards in a mile, chill out. Then, go
read http://www.nicaliving.com/node/view/68 and chill out some more.
Jimmy Carter promised that the US would be on the metric system by
1978. He lied. Here, there was no such promise.
- I work at home and people keep interrupting me.
- While businesses in a home are very popular (pulpurias--small
grocery stores--for example) if you are home then it is generally
assumed that you don't have anything more pressing to do then talk to
someone. Think positive, it's good Spanish practice.
- The water and/or power is off a lot more then when I lived in
Portland.
- Yup, it is. But, when most people don't have refrigerators, they
cook with wood or gas and you don't need heating or air conditioning,
it just isn't a big deal. If you need to be on-line all the time (like
me) get a UPS and some big batteries. Or a generator. And a water
tank.
- I got a Bell South cell phone because it had the cheapest service.
But, it doesn't work in most of the country.
- Yup, true. Now you know why it is cheap. For the best coverage,
pick Enitel. Otherwise, stop complaining.
- It doesn't feel safe to walk home at night.
- Maybe it isn't. If you lived in a city in the U.S. you would
likely come to the same conclusion. The biggest difference is that in
U.S. cities you get killed. Here you might get robbed. So, take a
cab. They are dirt cheap.
- People stare at me as if I was different or something.
- You are. So, talk to them. Some Nicaraguans are black and their
first language is English. Different here seems to be a lot less
important than when I was growing up in the U.S.
Directions
Getting directions from a landmark that is no longer there is very familiar- and faily common for most folks, I would guess. That doesn't mean it is not convenient for the new person. It is just a lot easier for the person giving directions. It is an insight into the mind of the native, or long term resident of an area.
Thus, when I am giving or getting directions in southern Iowa, where I lived my first 18 years, landmarks are often missing. "North of the sale barn past Eli Girdner's place, and then 2 miles or so east," gets you to the house where I grew up. But the sale barn closed about 40 years ago and was torn down 20 years later. Mr. Girdner's place also once belonged to my Great-great-grandfather, but his name was no longer attached to it by the time I was learning landmarks. Young people today are learning their own landmarks.
They still know the "sale barn corner" because of its constant use as a reference, just as the Texaco Viejo in your example. Someday, it will be supplanted by another term. I may never know, though, since I don't live there anymore.
In a way, using the old landmarks is also an exercise in community. The folks who have been around can give directions and revel in their special knowledge of the history of the community while newcomers must learn the old references-or forever be outsiders.
Or not.
Directions
Aptly said. I warm to the reference about the sense of community that comes thru giving directions like this. Also reminds me of friends in Virginia traveling to my farm outside Richmond by back roads from south of the city with the instruction to turn left at the field where the palomino is....
I agree with you
Nicely put
wpa
The wpa wasn't necessarily the leaf-raking exercize some people like to project. In my county the rental cabins at the county park up in the mountains were build by the wpa and they are still being rented out to this day. Rustic and funky. Not to say that I think government job programs are a major solution to unemployment (or is it overpopulation?), but sometimes they can work out.