CUBA 1909

I finally had the opportunity to visit Cuba last May, having wanted to for over 10 years. One hears so many contradictory things about Cuba, and I wanted to go there while Fidel Castro was still in power, to be able to form my own impressions about this unique country. I am glad I did. To sum it up in as few words as possible, Cuba is a very special Latin American country.

Although I was only able to dedicate 5 days to Cuba, I spent all of the time in La Habana, and although I “did” El Moro, Tropicana Cabaret, La Habana Vieja and a couple of museums, most of my time was spent getting myself “lost” in various residential areas of the Havana area. There I watched people getting on with their normal lives. I had the opportunity to speak with a number of ordinary Habañeros about different things—their outlook on the future (including what they think will happen when Fidel Castro passes on), life in general, hopes, dreams, disappointments, criticisms, Nicaragua and where I live today (the Middle East). Befriended a retired Cubana de Aviacion, S.A. airline pilot turned artist, and spent a few nights finishing-off bottles of Havana Club sitting on the Malecon with talkative Habañeros. It was one of the most meaningful vacations I had in my life, and I am proud that I did it.

Cubans hae a lot to teach the world about taking pleasure in life despite the odds. The majority are paid pitiful wages (the equivalent of about $10 USD per month) in worthless Cuban Pesos (also commonly referred to as moneda nacional), while to reliably buy things that most of us consider essential (such as clothes, soap, rum, cigarettes, etc) one must get their hands on Pesos Convertibles (also commonly referred to as divisas). Cubans are very creative in how to do this. I stayed in a very comfortable (not typical Cuban by any means) casa particular for about 30 Pesos Convertibles a night. This is a legitimate operation, however, the drive for divisas also creates the Cuban phenonemon of jineteros (hustlers) as well as general corruption—a state taxi driver who will cut a deal with you and turn off the meter for the return trip, etc. When you look at it, it is no different than what you see in other Latin American countries. But then it only gets better.

La Habana is an extremely safe city. I spent days wandering about, including at night—something I would never do in León or Managua even if I were armed. Never did I encounter beggars, and my shoes had to wait for my return to Nicaragua to get polished. Cuban children enjoy a system where many activities are provided for them—organized musical games in parks, a decent education system, adults organizing impromptu baseball games in grassy areas. In one organized activity that I observed, one of the boys was caught cheating, and the organizer explained that in this game, what we learn is that one has to be a good loser; the chance to win will come again in the next game. There are also activities organized for seniors. In most parts of Latin America, these two age groups are shown less consideration because they are not economically productive. In another park, Salsa was booming out over a sound system, and various adults indulged— and Cubans are fantastic dancers.

Cuba does not look like a country waiting to be taken over by the United States, the Cuban exiles, or anyone else for that matter. Cuba is probably one of the most independent-minded countries in Latin America today. An entire generation of ordinary Cubans living in Cuba have been fed a diet of anti-USA propaganda for decades. The trade embargo, the violence of anti-Castrista groups, as well as the double-standards of US foreign policy, such as the proclaimed “War on Terror” with it’s prison camp in Guantanamo, while harboring people anti-castro dissidents, like Luis Posada Carriles, who himself admitted to having sabotaged a Cubana DC-8 causing the death of 73 persons, has made it easy for them to believe that the US, and those who live there, simply wish them ill.

As far as the exile community goes, a taxi driver explained to me that they would be welcome back, “they are our brothers” he explained. But forget the issue about reclaiming lost property. He explained that under cuban law, when you leave Cuba then property is considered abandoned and siezed by the state. It then is redistributed. Of course, politics in Latin America are rarely stable, and a pro-USA government may well change laws and constitutions in such an abrupt manner that could make stomaches churn in other developed parts of the world.

Lets give Castro the credit he deserves. While political freedom is very limited in Cuba, he has succeeded in providing most of the human rights that are sadly lacking in other parts of Latin America—safe streets, quality health care and decent education guaranteed for all, reproductive freedom (availability of condoms and abortions) and greater equality for women. As one of my Managua friends who was sent to school in Cuba during the 80’s explained—if he needs a heart transplant, he’s dead—because he could never afford it in Nicaragua. In Cuba he would be taken care of. I think that most Cubans wish for something better, but compare their lot in life with the experiences of other Latin American countries and decide that things are not so bad. Certainly Nicaragua’s experience, which transitioned from a leftist, planned economy to the “democratic” and “capitalistic” model does not provide much inspiration to Latin Americans.

In summary, my impression is that the MAJORITY of Cubans enjoy a better standard of living than the MAJORITY of Nicaraguans.

I actually really worry what will become of Cuba after Castro’s demise. It will be interesting to watch. Meanwhile, if you do have the chance to go to Cuba while things are still as they are . . . do it! It is deliciously different. TACA flies daily via San Salvador (or you could save even more by taking the once-weekly flight from Managua on Aerocaribbean-- if you don't mind the long flight in a European-made ATR Turboprop) and Cuban Immigration will not stamp your passport unless you actually ask them to.

By the way, if you can pick up Oliver Stone's "Comandante", it is a very worthwhile film based on some 30 hours of interviews with Fidel Castro.

Lots of investment in Cuba's tourism already from Spain, Italy, Canada, etc... Lots of tourists too... Just ask Italians and Canadians... It is a great country. It is too small and will immediately be expensive along the lines of the Bahamas and will have many problems with titles and so on for many years to come... Therefore, Nicaragua should not be worried as a destination for people who want to live and invest.. For those who want to visit, Cuba is closer anyways to the US and have a lot more tourist infrastructure than Nica does, so yes it maybe a destination for 1 or 2 summer and March break visits with the Kids for many USA americans.

Quite a few friends have traveled to Cuba. Some with Pastors for Peace, others just because they wanted to be there. You need to remember that Cuba is open--it is the US government that says "you" can't travel there.

What people say seems to be very consistent. Here are some points:

• Havana is possibly the safest big city in the world, it is very clean and full of 1950s US cars.
• The population really does have access to education and medical care.
• Stores and restaurants for "locals" are very cheap but there is a "tourist class" of shops that costs a lot more.
• You are watched but it is quite different from the US. That is, a person will watch you rather than video cameras, monitoring your phone calls, internet messages, ...
• Lots of international tourism.

If the current regime falls all hell will break loose. Properties that were seized by the government will all be in limbo. I know a few people in the USA that have claims to some serious pieces of property & are just waiting on the chance to reclaim them.