Sailing Lake Nicaragua Cocibolca in the Isletas de Granada

SAILING ON LAKE NICARAGUA

My contribution to the renaissance of a cultural technique

by Velago Nicaragua

Nicaragua, the "Land of Lakes and Volcanoes" is one of the most prosperous places in the world. Do you know what kind of abundance we speak about? One of this country's resources may not gain the attention it deserves. Perhaps we can't see it, though it certainly can be felt – and it would be wise to use it. You may have guessed by now, it's the wind.

One of the most creative uses is being moved by it. Sailing is an original technique that is still being used. Some Nicaraguan fishermen in their everyday lives make use of simple triangular bermuda type sails running before the wind - without getting that much attention...

The first Spanish explorations of Lake Nicaragua were carried out under captain-general Gil González 1522-23. They used sailboats to connect Granada with the Caribbean and therefor to the old world. Their water streets were the lake and its discharge, the San Juan river.

"Con mi abuelo salimos al lago a vela" ("With my grandfather we went out sailing") tells an elder man. This same man has now worked for more than a half year in Nicaragua's first sailing school. Here is how everything began...

1999. As a young Austrian male citizen I was called for duty and opted doing a 1-year lasting social service abroad in a country somewhere in Central America, close to Costa Rica named after the Nicarao tribe. Trying to get a little bit around in my few days off, it didn't take long to fall in love with Lake Nicaragua, also named Cocibolca.

Breathtaking ferry trips, bewildering waves and sunsets over the dark green horizon – Lake Nicaragua was showing off its beauties sometimes making us believe that we were offshore. In all this harmony, I unconsciously missed something on this paradisaical freshwater sea, something I couldn't name at those moments.

After finishing my service and having returned several times to Nicaragua, on one late afternoon's ferry trip it dawned on me: I got the answer to my personal question. The answer the lake could not reveal for such a long time. Sailboats. The ferry had not yet arrived the port when I had a clear idea:

"If there are no more sailboats in this sailor's paradise then I will bring some and teach people how to navigate". So far the quickest but most profound decision I have ever taken.

2008. After a long and exhausting preparation phase the dream of sailing on Lake Nicaragua has become true. The "Velago Nicaragua" sailing school celebrated it's first birthday. A great moment also for a lot of friends and learners whom I have taken out so far to introduce them into the art of dominating the wind's enormous power.

The sailing waters of Lake Nicaragua

This is not the place for bull shark ferry tales, the Internet and tourism propaganda deal a lot with them. Isn't it way more important to know that the Cocibolca's dimensions allow us to sail away from civilization being out there alone, you and her? With more than 8.000 km² this lake offers quite a lot of possibilities for escaping your everyday life.

When taking your decisions when it comes to recommendable sailing destinations, your imagination is basically the only constraint. Do not expect Mediterranean styled marinas and save the effort of searching for a navigation map. Land is visible all time and individual trips won't take longer than a day, so skip the astro-navigation course with no remorse.

Apart from the better known waters of Granada, undertake great excursions to the islands of Zapatera and Ometepe where you find peace of mind anchoring in solitary bays. Exploring the hardly unbeknown coast of Chontales with its major port Puerto Díaz can result in your most delightful trip. However crossing the rough waters towards the east coast sometimes means brawls for the boat and yourself when wind and waves turn out to be merciless.

All year around stable wind conditions have never let me down. Winds out in the open waters mostly force you to shorten the mainsail. But there your boat must be equipped for reefing.

The rainy season (officially from June to November) is said to have too little wind. One more of these funny things told by those people who don't go out there anyway. It's a matter of fact that in this season there is less wind occurring. But still more than you would really need to sail the specific highest speed your boat is built for – and the America's Cup has (still) not reached lake Nicaragua.

Navigating the waters of Granada

Granada with it's islets is not only a unique but challenging yachting area. Conditions are diverse here. Only six blocks east from the heart of the colonial town's center you have a shallow beach with wind speed ranging between 10 and 25 Mph and intense winds of 40 Mph occur several times a week in the late afternoon. Mother nature must have been very patient evidently waiting for humans to invent catamaran sailing and kite-surfing in order to pay tribute to this extraordinary conditions.

The southern part of the beach gets a lighter wind since the islets (Isletas de Granada) extenuate the average wind speed. For learners it should be better to start off at this section.

Would your friends call you a fool if you told them that on a sailboat you can get wind from two or even three directions at the same time? Well here is where they could find out you are right. In addition to the Southeast to East main wind direction, wind diversion and jet effects from the islets will let you doubt your concepts of physics. You can get a third wind direction from the all mighty Mombacho volcano. Cool air gusts fall down from the higher altitudes in the late afternoon.

The adjoining islets to the south are a minimundus of Caribbean lifestyle. From the sailboat you can watch the rich and famous as well as the "ordinary" people in their everyday lives as fishermen, boat builders or housewives doing the laundry. Discretion and silence are the keywords, not horse powers. Birdwatching and taking pictures is just one more reason for taking a silent and elegant transportation vehicle.

Sailing around the archipelago gives the saying "The journey is the reward" a new meaning. Leaving Granada behind one has the magnificent view of the cities architecture while to the south there is the assembly of islets, Mombacho volcano, Zapatera island, and sometimes even both volcanoes of Ometepe island are visible. Sailing southward along the islands, waves and wind can get quite challenging. 6 feet high waves have to be expected. The reward for this effort is the lagoon of Asese with scattered islands and cleaner water, deep enough for a sailboat. Enjoying the flushing green of the time before sunset can be the coronation of your trip.

Establishing a sailing environment

The above mentioned dream has become true in a small scale sailing school and boat rental, Velago Nicaragua. The courses are given in Spanish, English and German and include a final theoretical and practical exam. Two teachers; the before mentioned elder men, who turned out to be a great sailor on modern boats as well, and myself give classes for everyone from the age of 14. A complete sailing course of 20 intensive hours over 3-4 days is offered as well as a half day basic introduction for those who would like to get an idea of it. Learners don't have to bring any equipment from the boat itself to the live-jacket for your size and weight class everything is provided for free.

The current sailboat fleet consists of three 16 feet jolly boats with roller furling genoa sail and a 14 feet Hobie Cat. The main aim is to teach people the skills of sailing and good seamanship. From tying the right knot to the "man overboard!" maneuver, the courses give a deep insight and feeling for sailing skills. Safety comes first and even experienced sailors have to wear faint proof life jackets. Those who just want to indulge a sailing trip without getting too much into sailing can take an excursion for the same price as bare boat rental, we do the skippering as a courtesy.

The main target of Velago is to offer an alternative to the trend of "driving" luxury motor yachts or jet skis. Apart from the ecological point of view creating an awareness for the beauty of the landscape, the right for silence, and the respect for other people using the lake are part of the philosophy.

How do sails work?

Commonsense lets us easily understand the concept of a floating object which gets pushed away by the wind. The pushing force can be increased providing higher resistance using a vertically attached surface – a sail. Now the object gets drafted faster.

But how is it possible that this floating object – let's call it a sailboat - can move forward (to 12 o'clock) when the wind blows from the side (9 or 3 o'clock) or even blows "against" our boat (from 11 or 1 o'clock)?

The answer is the same effect which makes an airplane rising up. Depression on the upper side of the wings and pressure on the lower side makes the airplane flying. Most sails are in fact vertically positioned airfoils, linked via sheets and cables to the hull. The boat gets soaked by the wind almost "against" the direction where the wind itself comes from. This is the "secret" allowing us to sail toward any destination without the use of a motor or oars.

Difficulties for sailors on Lake Nicaragua

Due to the enormous changes in water level the given infrastructure of existing marinas with stonewalls for mooring was inappropriate for sailboats. Solving this problem was only possible by building a floating pontoon.

Signing of shoals has also become a major task. We did it in several parts of the Asese lagoon with trunks of Chilamate trees, which grow roots after being implanted on the ground, even in 6 feet deep water. Help from the ministry of water transport (MTI) could not and –

according to a recent request at the Granada office – won't be expected. Though the MTI charges tax for operating a boat.

Not all parts of the islets are navigable for sailboats. Power lines supplying several islands can you from passing underneath – heeling the boat can help but requires experience and courage. Entering or exiting the Asese lagoon without having to sail all around the islands is possible at two passages.

"Side effects"

Despite a 14 hours working day I would declare myself as a lucky person being able to achieve two goals at the same time: Sailing and the passion for boats are one thing; giving a smart job to several people is not only a side effect but part of the master plan. Isn't it great to watch local people identifying themselves with the idea, guiding a boat with visitors through their islands where they grew up, showing the tourists a way to preserve the beauty? Honestly it is a good treatment for the often damaged self-esteem of Nicaraguans to skipper a Sailboat being responsible for the crew and the guests.

by Ferdinand Hofer